Screenshot from Surfline video linked above.
Ben: That day was indeed a special one. Things started out on the “slow” side due to a really high tide in the morning so I was able to relax, take my time getting ready and have a couple eggs and some yogurt with walnuts. It was a perfect California day with high pressure in place, warm sunny skies and favorable winds. Everything seemed to be in place that morning. Figuring that the main lot would be crowded with surfers and dog walkers jockeying for parking, I decided I’d park at a secondary parking area. I pulled up and there were no spots there either. I saw Wyatt Fields who found me a spot that I was convinced was too small for my truck, but he was right, and with his help, I was able to fit into the spot. That morning, I had brought along a new pair of booties that were still in the box. As I suited up, I slipped on my bootie and something didn’t feel right. They were round-toe! It would’ve cost me another half hour to go get my split-toe booties which I decided was too much time to waste so I ended up going with no booties, a first for me at Mavericks.
It was a big day and most guys were going out on boats or paddling the long way out through the lagoon south of the break. I decided that I would paddle out from the north end of the break, something less commonly done because of the danger and difficulty in getting out beyond the waves that crash along the reef there. I had to be patient since the sets were fairly consistent. When there was a break in the sets, I jumped off the rocks and had a successful paddle out into the lineup. I remember taking a few breaks on the paddle out to watch some of the waves that were breaking, and going unridden. I knew that it had to be pretty heavy since waves were going unridden and there were probably 30 plus hungry surfers in the lineup. They were big, beautiful and hollow waves.
I made my way into the lineup and saw many familiar faces as well as some new ones. There were a lot of guys out which is typical these days out at Mavericks. The cool thing is that there is still the dedicated local crew and still many days at Mavs that are incredible and uncrowded. There were a lot of waves coming through and I stroked into my first one within about 10-15 minutes of being out. It wasn't a bigger set, but it popped up nicely on the main bowl and allowed me a smooth fun drop and ride which I kicked out of in the channel. I remember noticing my board feeling a little hard due to the fact that I wasn't wearing booties. I was feeling good having broken the ice and getting into one relatively quickly.
There were big, scary waves which made being constantly aware of the incoming sets essential to avoid being caught inside and cleaned up by one of these monsters. It reminded me of the 2010 Mavericks contest in which I was cleaned up by the biggest set of the morning before I had a chance to catch a wave. I was hoping that wouldn't happen that day. Not long after my first wave, I saw the horizon get loaded up with a few very large lumps. It was a big set approaching! I was the furthest guy out in the lineup and started scratching for the outside because I wanted to be out far enough not to be caught by the large approaching set. I let the first one go, it was a huge unapproachable wave that I wanted no part of. Apparently, Nic Vaugh went on it and got annihilated. The next one was about to break even further out and was the biggest wave I had seen come through yet. I wanted to avoid it but as it approached, it swung a little wide and backed off just enough to make me realize that I was in a good spot to catch this wave. I didn't have to do much and only had to paddle hard about three or four paddles, I was in the perfect spot and the wave caught me. As it loaded up and I popped to my feet, I remember it looking like a long way to the bottom. It was a smooth entry but the drop seemed to go on forever and the wave had some steep parts on the way down the face. The hardest and scariest part of the wave was the drop, so once I made that part, it felt like the hard work was done so I leaned into a "soul arch" on the bottom turn. I knew I had it made by then. I got spit on pretty hard by the barrel and when I kicked out there was screaming in the channel. It felt amazing, it was such a rush! People were yelling, clapping and as I paddled back into the lineup, all the guys were congratulating me on the wave. It was a very special feeling and definitely one of my best ever rides at Mavericks. A lot of the biggest waves you can catch out there end up closing out on you but this one allowed me to ride it successfully and kick out in the channel.
I was riding a board I've had for probably over 5-6 years now. It's a 9'7" Randy Cone thruster and has channeled rails that he built in, mostly for strength I think. Randy doesn't shape a lot of boards but he shapes them very well for Mavericks because he knows the wave and has himself been a standout surfer out there. Those several years ago, he had a stack of surfboard blanks and one of them was a "Clark Foam" blank. I am so happy to have claimed that blank and that he shaped it for me because it's been a Magic board. Thanks Randy!
That morning, I was thinking a lot about an 84 year old dear friend, John Braid who had passed away just days before. I also though about Sion Milosky that morning as I do many times when I pass the little hill that Nate Fletcher and I built a little shrine on in his dedication the day after his passing. I'm convinced that this was a gift from John and Sion. I feel very blessed to have been a part of that day and to have caught that wave. Aloha, Ben Andrews
Picture by Ryan Chachi Craig
]]>The Litmus print featuring Derek Hynd riding a Skip Frye fish that I made for the 20th Anniversary Litmus box set
My first Introduction to Andrew was his pivotal surf film Litmus. It was around 2000, I was about 16, and it was still a time when all the best shredding was viewed via dvd’s purchased from your local surf shop. I was browsing surf flicks, saw the cover of litmus and immediately drawn in by a little picture of Joel Fitzgerald holding a mushroom in front of his shaggy smiling face, and thought hmmm, this would make a great birthday present for my dad. Of course I ended up watching it over and over with my surf buds, waiting until my parents were gone so we could sneak outside for some combustible viewing enhancement. In retrospect, watching Litmus changed my trajectory as a surfer and, to some degree, as a person. At the time I didn’t realize this blatantly non, almost anti- corporate surf film would ever make a dent, as only a few of my like minded friends ever gave it the full appreciation it deserved. Luckily, but not surprisingly, there happened to be a quite a few surfers around the world that were tuned into the same frequency. My stoke level for Andrew is incredibly high, since he is finally starting to get the recognition he deserves as an artist, and Litmus - the classic that no one heard of, has retained its cult following, and has seen a flurry of publicity lately, along with some of Kidman’s other projects.
Over a decade later I wandered into Aqua surf shop for the first time half-assed looking for a job and got lucky to become part of crew. I cant remember exactly how the conversation started but one day Aleks Petrovich, one of the shops co-owners mentioned something like; “Yeah, Andrew Kidman is a good friend of mine. He just premiered his new film here and I think I want to interview him for the shop’s blog. You can help if you want.” Needless to say I was stoked to help.
Petro, as the Aqua crew lovingly refers to him as, is one of the most unique, high energy, laterally minded, and warm hearted surfers I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. If you’ve ever met the guy you know I'm not just sucking up to my boss by saying that. After getting to know Petro a little better and seeing his own prowess and influence as an artist it’s easy to see how these two would find one another. Here is Aleks’ classic recollection of their first meeting in his words:
“I was first introduced to Andrew by our mutual friend, Marcus Sanders, at some barely organized "Surf Art Show” that we both had pieces in. That must have been ten or fifteen years ago. The show was at 111 Minna Gallery and was “organized and curated” by some snake oil salesman (art world huckster) name rhymes with Rim, so basically everything that could go wrong, did. Being friends as I was with many of the great people at 111 Minna Gallery, I wanted to help out when I saw this train wreck unfolding. My business, Aqua surf shop, has had many great events with 111 Minna, so we help each other out. So, I basically took over hanging the show, and covered other things that badly needed to get done for an art show to happen. It was during this art show lifesaving effort that I got to know Andrew, who jumped right in to help and lend his great sense of humor to calm me down. Within minutes I felt like this was a guy I've grown up with. He was cracking jokes at my expense, and I was laughing and enjoying it as much as he was. From that point in time we have had a consistent relationship - simply making fun of each other, working on an occasional creative project together, and keeping up with each other as we go through time. I get amped when he comes stateside to premiere his new film projects and I work hard to organize the best SF premieres I can. Andrew is a multi talented person whom really fuels my creativity- after hanging out with him I want to go make rad things!”
Aleks and I recently took some time to ask Andrew about life, his artwork, and surfing. For more info on Andrew check out his website: andrewkidman.com
Kevin: You make films, surfboards, prints, books, take photos, make music... Is there one particular trade or media that you enjoy the most, or one that defines you as an artist?
On the road on the East Coast last year, at Asbury Park Photos by John Schultz
Andrew: I like making music. It’s an endless journey full of challenges and surprises. It’s an interesting process to then combine it with film or story telling. The journey of making surfboards is pretty incredible as well ever changing, ever evolving, making boards for different waves. It’s a fun thing to do.
Kevin: Did you think Litmus would have the effect it did on the surf world? Did you set out to create a cult classic?
Andrew: No. We just wanted to reflect some of the things that were going on in surfing at the time. It was pre-meditated, we didn’t have much of a plan. I knew Derek was experimenting with boards as I’d seen them, so I thought that would be interesting to watch in a film, his quiver journey. The rest of the film really just unfolded as Jon and I travelled around. We’d recorded the soundtrack before we left to shoot the film so we already knew what the film could feel like.
Litmus 20th Anniversary box set, featuring Litmus and glass Love soundtracks on vinyl and a 100 page book put out by Anthology Recordings
Kevin: The word hipster still gets thrown around a lot these days, and to be honest, I’m still not entirely sure what this most heinous of insults means, besides a young man that likes to don tight jeans and a fedora. It seems that in our surf tribe, hipsterdom has gained an unfortunate association with the more artistic and unconventional branches of the surfing tree when in the past, surfers and surf artists of that vain were kind of revered, and their unconventional experimental thinking has contributed to countless advancements in wavering and equipment. That being said, what are your thoughts on the word “hipster,” and what would you say to someone who labeled you as such?
I grew up working with Simon Anderson, he'd shape me boards and we'd go surfing, test them out. This is down the South Coast in the late 80s riding a round tail 6'5" flat bottom.
Andrew: I never really thought about it. I’d be stoked if someone thought I was a “hipster”. Especially if I was sporting my morning dressing robe, like Harry Nillson on the cover of his finest record Nilsson Schmilsson.
Kevin: Was the big PG warning on the DVD of Akasha a reaction to some of the negative criticism you received for the more controversial parts of Litmus?
Andrew: Not really, we didn’t classify the film. I think it had a M rating actually, which I’m okay about. There’s an anti herion cartoon that features in the film. Young kids are not going to understand that, so that’s fair enough.
Kevin: What was it like working with Falzon, and what did you learn from him? Do you see any similarities between Albert and yourself?
Andrew: Working with Alby was great. He has a real eye for artistic beauty and he understands true art I think. The best part for me was when the cover songs of Morning of the Earth were coming through, musicians like Will Oldham and Andrew Van Wyngarden from MGMT covering the original songs, I was sending them through to Alby and he was so humbled and blown away by the versions, nobody had stepped up to cover the title track Morning of the Earth, maybe it was too daunting, then Mick Turner the guitarist from the Dirty Three called and said he’d like to do it, which I thought would be pretty radical. Mick ended up doing it with the Xlyouris Ensemble with vocals by this opera singer, Oliver Mann. It was just incredible when the final version came through, Alby was sitting next to me when it arrived and I played it for him. He sat there with his eyes closed listening to it, when it was done he opened them and said, “That’s just pure art.” It was a really special moment.
I shaped this board with Dave Parmenter and Wayne Lynch, 6'7" single fin. One of my favourites!
Kevin: What do you think about professional surfing? Do you get stoked watching WSL contests? Does it have any effect on your life or artwork?
Andrew: It’s okay. I think there are too many surfers on the tour and not enough wildcards. It’s pretty obvious who the best surfers are and I like to watch them surf when the waves are good. It’s a distraction watching it. When I was a kid growing the only surfing you’d see was on the news at night when the big comps were in Australia, it’s everywhere these days which is pretty cool.
Kevin: What kind of technology did you use to shoot Akasha? How does it compare to what Morning of the Earth, and Litmus was shot on? How much consideration to you put into the camera equipment you use for your films and how does it effect the final product? Is there anything to be said for the Low-FI not overproduced aesthetic and sound in films, music, and surfboards?
Litmus Box set on the shelves going Cuckoo Bra
Andrew: We used every format really. The cameraman were using whatever they owned. Morning of the Earth was just one cameraman (Alby) using one camera using 16mm film, I just threw it out to people like Jon Frank, Mickey Smith, Patrick Trefz to shoot what they felt would honor Alby, which they did, it was a full collaboration honoring Alby’s filmmaking and the songs that scored the film. Litmus was shot on hi 8. I can’t say I consider it that much, camera’s are just cameras, they all work, for me it’s more about the story I’m trying to tell. Cameras these days are just incredible, the slo mo, it’s mindblowing. I love watching surfing like this. If I had money, I’d have cameras that could shoot like this.
Kevin: How did you become a surf artist/ shaper/ musician? Is it something you one day decided to do or was it a slow process?
Andrew: I started playing music when I was a kid, my parents wanted me to do it. It’s just something I’ve always done, I love it. Surfing was the same, I started doing it when I was a kid and I loved it and I’ve just kept doing it, shaping is a part of being a good surfer I think, when I was growing up all the best surfers were shapers, Simon Anderson, Terry Fitzgerald…I grew up as a kid surfing with these guys and watching them shape, working with them to try and make the boards better. It’s infectious, it just rubs off on you, I wanted to shape boards so I could make my surfing better and attempt to ride the waves how I wanted to ride them, get new feelings.
Kevin: Whats your day to day like, and how much time do you put in to creative process and traveling? Have you made a conscious effort to avoid the 9-5 daily grind?
Michele Lockwood has great style in and out of the water!
Andrew: I’ve never thought about 9-5 grind. I just try to work everyday on something, keep the bills paid doing things I like doing. It’s not easy but we get by. We live a pretty low-key lifestyle. If the surf’s good I try to go surfing. It’s not always good so I work on days like that or hang out with my kids and Michele.
We have a good life, we’ve been very fortunate to live in rural Australia, food is local, the air is clean, we collect our own rain water, the kids go to good schools, we really don’t need a lot more.
Curren usually stays with us when he comes out to Oz, last year he was right into stand up boogie board riding and Gus got right into it as well
Aleks: Dude, thank you so much for your time I need to get over and visit you and da family! Kevin thank you for putting together this interview I really appreciate it. Aloha!
Andrew: Cheers mate!
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You can bring in distressed Murres to the SF Humane Society of International Bird Rescue.
NOTE- once you learn a little about these rad shorebirds you will want to help out. Please donate to International Bird Rescue in nearby Fairfield HERE!
Last week, as I rode my last wave into the sand after a midday surf, I noticed a little shorebird weakly waddling up to me. It looked tired and sad, and it was obvious it needed some kind of help. As I looked around, I noticed several others of the same type of bird, all dead or in the process of getting pecked to death by ravens and gulls. Their little bodies littered the beach in both directions.
So I figured I’d pick up the little bird, which resembled a penguin, with the idea of finding it some kind of help. The little penguin-like bird didn't resist my gentle grip in the slightest, no flurry of pecks and flapping wings. Surprised by it's complete calm, I carried it cupped against my chest up and over the dunes. Once home, I found out what sort of bird this was online- while also looking for regional bird rescue organizations- then I made the Murre a little nest in a bin with towels. I called up International Bird Rescue and a helpful person named Isabel gave me some good information of how to help the bird until I could take it to the shelter. That evening, I blended up some fresh fish, that with some coaxing, I was able to inject down it's gullet with a large syringe. After feeding it I returned the Murre to the box, and with newfound energy the Murre tried to hop out. Curious, I took it out of the bin and placed it a few feet away to see what the little Murre had in it to do. It made a beeline for me, surprisingly, and jumped right into my lap. It allowed me to pet his neck and head, and I sat in quiet amazement pondering the fact that this wild sea bird seemed to know I was helping it, and that it indeed was seeking out my physical touch. It's pretty cool to experience the fact that two creatures from radically different worlds can communicate complex ideas, like the feeling of safety and comfort, when their worlds are so incredibly different.
I ended up watching a movie with the Murre sitting comfortably in my lap the entire time. When put it back into the box for bed, it seemed much stronger. I felt optimistic about it's chances. Sadly, within an hour or two I checked up on it and found it had died. I guess it was too far gone. I felt a little better knowing that it's last moments weren't of getting rained on by a raven's beak, but spent peacefully watching Friday Night Lights, warm and safe on my lap.
As most of you probably know, SF nearshore ocean temperatures are currently registering some of the highest temperatures on record. Offshore about 20 to 30 miles, roughly the distance to the Farallones, temperatures are at, or exceeding 68 degrees Fahrenheit. This could be due to all kinds of factors- El Nino, the "Blob"(record warm temperature pool in the entire Eastern Pacific), or some combination of factors yet to be explained. Suffice it to say that the normal upwelling of cool, nutrient rich water, which is driven by our usually relentless onshore winds has not been happening all that often. While we have all been enjoying the warm water, it's been a big problem for all the other marine critters that depend on this upwelling for food to survive. Dead birds littering the beach, dead seals and sea lions, are all sad reminders that El Nino is currently dominating the Pacific.
"If the wind doesn't blow, there's no cooling of the water. It's like the refrigerator fails. The local water warms up from the sun, and water is not cooling off" says Nate Mantua, a research scientist with the National Marine Fisheries Service in Santa Cruz.
You can pick up a Murre easily by gently wrapping a towel around them.
Common Murres which many refer to as “Little Penguins" are dying en masse. They are washing up on shore simply because they are starving. Their food source, fish of course, are down deeper in cooler thermoclines, deeper then the Murres are accustomed too. So the Murres wash up weak and unable to sustain themselves, where they are thereupon killed by Ravens and Seagulls. I've observed this massacre enough to notice that often the Murres are just killed for the sake of killing, and often not eaten at all. While I try to avoid making any ridiculous moral judgment about ravens and gulls, no amount of rationalization makes it easy for me to stomach, and we should help out- that is clear to my intution! To better understand why this is going on I've decided to ask the great people at The International Bird Rescue in Fairfield, here is Isabel to inform us about what is going on. Again, if you are able, please make a online donation to support their work.
AP: Isabel please tell us a little about yourself and your role with IBR. Introduce and include any other IBR staff that would like to be in the interview.
IL: I am the lead rehabilitation technician at International Bird Rescue. I have worked here for a little over 5 years. We have 4 other technicians who also care for the birds we have in house. Our organization started in 1971 when there was a large oil spill in the San Francisco Bay. This is when International Bird Rescue was created and we have been working with native aquatic bird species ever since. Learning more and more as the time goes by.
AP: Please tell us a little about Common Murres their habitat, food and migration patterns.
Check out the live Murre cam at IBR HERE! So rad!
IL: Common Murres breed on our coast, one large breeding population is on the Farallone Islands. They are amazing swimmers and divers, mainly using there strong, sturdy wings to dive down, up to 300 feet to forage. They feed on many items such as Euphausiids, capelin, sand eels, herring, marine worms, shrimps and mollusks. Murres tend to come to the Farallones and cliff side on our coast in the fall to begin nesting and after Summer migrate off shore to open water until breeding begins again. The mainly stay on our coast or can migrate north towards the Aleutian islands.
AP: Why is such a large population washing up/dying seemingly at once?
IL: Our organization is unsure why we are seeing so many washing up on shore and presented in our hospital. We all have different theories/ideas but we may never know the exact cause. It could be due to the warmer waters on our coast causing fish and other food items to stay deeper in the water, where these birds, especially juveniles cannot dive to. It could also be a natural die off, where they may just be dying off to even out their numbers in the environment, which then the ecosystem may better handle their population. It is the end of their breeding season, so there are larger numbers of them on our coast at this time due to juveniles leaving the nest and foraging with there parent. In my 5 years with IBR I have never seen this many Murres in care, this is unusual and something we do not see every year.
AP: I’ve noticed lots of bait balls in shallow water, do Murres not hunt Sardines? What kind of fish do Murres hunt?
IL: We have heard word that there is fish out there so we are not sure what is causing them to come into care starving. from what I have read the eat Capelin, Cod, herring, shrimp, euphausiids, mollusks and some marine invertebrates. I am not sure if they eat Sardines or why they wouldn't if there were a source of them out there.
AP: I have picked up three Murres to bring in for rescue, and they have been so friendly they almost seem to be domesticated. Is this because they are so weak that they are unable to defend themselves, or a unique trait in a wild bird? The birds I handled genuinely seemed happy to be out of their poor predicament and comfortable and calm at my house.
IL: Unfortunately this behavior is due to there weakened state. They just do not have the reserves or energy to fight back which leaves them at risk for becoming predated on. It is most definitely not a normal behavior which as with any wildlife, if you can approach it there is more then likely something wrong with it.
AP: What is involved in the rehabilitation of a Murre when it has arrived?
IL: Once the bird has arrived at our facility we do a physical exam, which includes taking a weight, temperature and a blood sample. These three indicators can tell us what shape the bird is in. Most of these birds a coming in weighing less then half their normal body weight. Also they have dropped body temperatures and low red blood cells, all these are signs that their body's are shutting down due to the lack of nutritional resources. Once we check over the bird it is banded with a color and number so we can track it in care. These birds are then offered food and even tube fed to get nutrients into the quickly.
AP: Will the rehabilitated Murre face the same situation once released- or will it continue migration and be able to get back to more stable conditions/habitat?
IL: I cant say for sure what the future will hold for these birds. But i can say we make sure then they are released back into the wild they are a healthy weight, with healthy blood work and planty of fat/muscle reserves to get the head start they need so much. Hopefully we can help the ones we released get ahead start on migration. We also federally band our birds at release so if one if found again, the band should be reported and we will have a better understanding if they were able to make it or not.
AP: What can we do to help?
We are a non profit and any size donation helps the care of these and other aquatic birds. We currently have 142 Common Murres in care as well as other species so our funds are disappearing fast with all the fish, and medical supplies we use on their care. We also have volunteers positions open year round and are happy to take on new volunteers to help with the daily care of these animals. Our work everyday has grown as the numbers grow, and its hard work making sure these animals have the best care possible.
We also ask, if anyone finds wildlife in need, like a Common Murre, to contact their local wildlife rehabilitation center and get the bird into care as soon as possible.
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Interview with Mr. Zog by Philip Petrovitch.
I had a certain tee shirt in sixth grade, and this special tee shirt had magical powers to confound and perplex. Donning it was a "full-on rad" statement to the world of a little surf rat's mind, a statement that this little duck-tailed grom has thrown his lot in with the surfing life and this tee shirt proves it. The rest of you be damned. The iconic Sex Wax tee shirt is this magic shirt of which I speak. Then and every bit as much today, it's the preferred way to make this statement even if it is now more widely understood. The magic in the shirt has strongest effect against people who don't surf of course, as the shirt screams "SEX" in odd combination with the word "wax", which usually sounds to non-surfing folks like some kind of personal lubrication brand....or does it provide pleasurable friction?. It grabs attention, funny looks, scornful disapproval from confused elders- especially when you are a kid wearing it. It's both baffling and offensive, and most importantly it provided a clear separation of comprehension between tribes in southern California at that time. Either you get it, or you don't. The world in my mind, at this time, was divided between these two groups; one cool and the other, "lame-o", So for a kid in sixth grade what's not to love, right? I think my elementary school gave up on banning the damn shirt, I mean the stickers were absolutely everywhere, which was perhaps the biggest marketing coup of all for the Zog's brand. In Solana Beach, North county San Diego in the mid 80's, we were in the midst of the absolute glory days for surf brands like Vaurnet sunglasses and Jimmy Z pants, Op, Offshore and on and on. Those brands have disappeared from the landscape now and few have survived the era. It goes without saying that Sex Wax is a brand that has passed the ultimate test of time. If any marketing company could figure out how to bottle this business success mojo, or even replicate it consistently, untold riches would await them. Fortunately we can ask the man behind the brand, the wizard of Zog, what goes into the special sauce of the brand. Here's what he said:
PP: Surf brands that have been around for as long as yours more often than not come from very humble beginnings. So i'm going to go out on a limb and say that your company, a company that started making a wax special for surfing in the 70's, didn't get any venture capital money. Tell me a little bit about that moment in time when you thought "Hey, I think this can be a big thing". Did people tell you that you were crazy? So yeah, how did it all start?
Zog: In 1969 I had a surf shop at the Santa Barbara Airport and met Nate Skinner who was also renting space in that area. He was familiar with wax and the various materials that could be used to alter its characteristics. Over a period 3 to 5 months month’s Nate created surf wax formulations and I would test them. By 1972 I was ready to start producing and selling Sex Wax. I had no idea what to expect. Initially two college friends gave me $5000 each in exchange for 5% partnerships in the new business.
Sometime within our first two years of operation, I was able to buy them out and give them double their money back. Nate held a 15% partnership for his instrumental role in developing the formula and helping to design some of the original homemade equipment we used at the time. Back then, I was making and wrapping the wax in a friend’s run-down garage, so overhead was very low. During the first 1 to 2 years, Sex Wax was a part time “gig” and I continued to supplement my income by shaping and glassing Zog Surfboards.
PP: Im 41 and realize now that I'm not old enough to understand what it was like to surf in the era before specialized waxes were developed. I'm not even sure how paraffin, or whatever other substances were used were applied. Did you drip on beads of wax from a melting candle? What sort of substances were used then to adhere your feet to your board besides paraffin, and was paraffin waxing awful enough that you saw a big improvement in the experience of surfing to be had in the existence of a special wax?
Zog: Parawax was the brand name of what was probably the most popular wax to be used for surfing on the West Coast during the 1960’s. This was a basic paraffin wax which was sold in grocery stores primarily for canning fruits and other perishables. Parawax was much more difficult to use on surfboards than the softer surfboard waxes we have today. A number of different techniques were employed to apply the first coat of paraffin wax to your surfboard……………..
You could try and just rub it on at room temperature for the first coat, but this was very difficult
You could submerge block of paraffin in warm or hot water to soften it and then rub it on.
You could melt the wax and either drip unto the surface of your board or paint it on with a brush
Once the first coat of wax was established you would just rub on additional wax prior to each new surf session. If you had forgotten to take any wax with you to the beach, you could always put your board face down in water to cool the waxed deck and then rub by hand with wet sand to rough up the wax surface.
PP: We went through a period in the early 90's where a lot of pros were using full deck traction pads. Was there a time when you thought that wax might disappear from surfing forever? I had one board with full deck traction, and I think I still have scars on my ribs from an epic day of surfing where I forgot a rash guard, so there were obvious flaws in the full-deck traction design. You would think that they could reformulate the foam so that it didn't take meat off your bones, but that didn't really happen and wax is still a staple. What is it about wax that makes it superior as traction to have survived these wax-less technologies?
Zog: I was somewhat concerned when tail pads and full deck traction pads first appeared on the market. As it turned out the full deck pads never really took hold and these days a lot of surfers are waxing their tail pads. The full deck pads for the most part were too rough and caused too much skin irritation. Full deck pads were also too expensive and to my mind quite ugly. With surfboard wax you can select from different levels of softness and stickiness to get whatever combination of traction and paddling comfort works best for you when you “trunk it”. Last but not least, there is the ritualistic aspect of “waxing up” just before you enter the water. Surfing is often described as being somewhat of a religious experience by many of its devotees, and “waxing up” has become a meditative “time out” that is the precursor to this holy experience..
PP: Just out of curiosity. You must have a great idea of where in the world surfing is really getting popular because you get to ship out wax all over the world. Are there some countries out there that are sending you orders for wax that would really surprise us? Where in the world have you see the most dramatic, increased demand for Sex Wax? I imagine for the embryonic surf scene in Yemen, the brand name might get nabbed at customs for being obscene. Does this sort of thing happen?
Zog: When we first started exporting Sex Wax, I was probably most surprised by the market in Japan. Japan ranks much higher than most people would think when it comes to the number of active surfers. At this point Sex Wax export sales are fairly stable within most coastal countries. Some of the other surf wax market countries that might seem a bit unexpected include the following:
Czech Republic
Germany
Hong Kong
Israel
South Korea
Vietnam
Sri Lanka
PP: Okay, I'll stop beating around the bush-SEX WAX "the best for your stick"- these are trademarks of the brand that should probably be case studies in post-grad marketing classes. I read on your website that this was you and the chemist Nate Skinner's homage to the truism that sex sells. What's amazing is that it's not the image of hot bikini models suggesting the idea, or you presenting a lifestyle of adventure and exotic women, whats amazing is that you proved that presenting the word alone, simply S-E-X in big letters, is enough to summon the marketing magic that follows. In my opinion, I feel like the trademark shirt graphic presents the words "Sex Wax" so boldly, yet so purposelessly (for non-surfers of course), that a persons brain goes haywire trying to understand why they are seeing this everywhere (even on kids!) and that they must be missing out on something; something like some plain, good ol' fashioned sex perhaps? In short, it makes people not in-the-know feel like they are missing out on something and they cannot stand it, In your opinion, what is your theory behind why people in places, places even thousands of miles away from breaking waves, are ordering your shirts on a daily basis?
Zog: Nate Skinner helped me out with the Sex Wax formulas but didn’t have anything to do with the name. When it came time to come up with a brand name, I asked a good friend, Hank Pitcher to come up with something for our wax. Hank, who is now a well known artist and teaches at the College of Creative Studies at UCSB, didn’t take very long. A few days after I made my request, Hank showed me what was to become the Sex Wax label that is so well known today. Mr Zog’s, Sex Wax, The Best for your Stick, and Never Spoils was all there and encapsulated within semi circular segments which comprised the overall circular label with an “old fashioned” feel. To be honest, I did not know what to think of it at first. Initially I felt this label was extremely strange and probably too controversial to use with for our surf wax. After a few days thought, I decided that being outrageous would be fun and consistent with my sarcastic nature. It was a happy go lucky period for me with very few responsibilities so why not! I realized that the Sex Wax label would bring immediate attention to our product, and I felt that we had a very good surf wax formula. If our surf wax was not up to snuff, then the outrageous name would have “back fired”.
People respond to the Sex Wax label in any number of ways, but it is a good fit for the psyche of most surfers. Outside the surf market “Sex Wax” is a bit too edgy for some people. We do sell a lot of t-shirts, but the controversial nature of the Sex Wax name does impose limits to our apparel market share. Sex Wax apparel sales will most likely never be as big as the other major surf brands, but the public’s brand awareness of Sex Wax is huge.
I do like the straight forwardness of the Sex Wax label; it is direct and thoughtfully provoking. As mentioned in your question, Sex Wax is not akin to the titillating visual imagery of a Carl’s Jr. Commercial. When Mom discovers a bar of Sex Wax in Junior’s closet, Mom may decide that it’s time for that long delayed discussion about the “Birds and Bees” which is good thing, but probably a little embarrassing for Mom when she finds out what Sex Wax really is.
PP: I'm not sure if Sex Wax has a place in the Surfing Hall of Fame, but it goes without saying that it has become one of the most uniquely identifiable and original of surf brands to people worldwide, whether they surf or not. Any brand dreams for that sort of recognition, so the fact that you have secured your place in the mainstream as a surf brand selling wax and a tee shirt, without selling in Target or even changing a damn thing, is rather remarkable. A solid surf team through the years helps, a consistent product that always performs on demand and is is widely available is definitely key, but most importantly- an amazing bit of marketing magic that makes you stand out from the crowd by a wide margin. You must be incredibly proud of your achievement, I mean, how could you not?. When you look back to the very beginning, from where you are now, what thoughts enter your mind? Say the gameshow Family Feud had a question like, "Name some things that have to do with surfing", you can bet one of the top three answers is going to be "SEX WAX" along with "The Beach Boys" and "Gidget", with "Laird Hamilton" coming in a close fourth. It's no longer just an iconic brand in surfing, but it's been appropriated as a wider part of American culture. That is pretty damn incredible when you think about it.
ZOG: I am proud of both the quality of the surfboard wax we have produced over the years and the success of the “Sex Wax” brand name. In many ways, I have been very lucky and I have also relied a great deal on others to help me along the way. Sex Wax has been fortunate to enjoy a favored status within the entertainment industry starting with the movie “Fast Times at Ridgemont High” and most recently being the answer to one of the questions on Jeopardy. The Sex Wax brand has reached an amazing level of recognition as millions of bars of Sex Wax have migrated around the globe based on a reputation for quality that has been spread primarily by word of mouth..It has been an amazing journey, and a bit of blur looking back. The one thing that I can take credit for is all the effort I have put into Sex Wax. Sometimes I feel like I am running this business and other times it feels like this business is running me. It’s a double edged sword.
Dave is 2nd to the right standing with the entire Boombotix crew.
Please tell us Lief’s story from bike messenger-artist to engineer of tiny rad speakers!
Aqua collab with Boombotix, featuring the mural art buddy PNUT painted for our shop.
Dave- Boombotix was founded by a Bay Area native, Lief Storer who after college was working here in SF, he wasn't a bike messenger, but he did bike to work with headphones. One day on his commute he almost got hit by a car because he could not hear it. Realizing there were no good portable speakers, he took matters in to his own hands.
What was the process of the Bombotix’s development- from Lief making one to fulfill a personal need to manufacturing and becoming a company.
Dave- The first speaker Lief made was taking apart a wake talkie, and using the components to make a speaker. He was pretty in to the imported Japanese vinyl toys so he took his new components and mounted them in to a toy skull. As he biked around SF with his little skull speaker, he'd have people ask how they could buy one, there the proverbial light went on, and the brand was born. Several years, borrowed dollars, rounds of crowdfunding and Silicon Valley venture capital, Boombotix is on its way.
What was the timeline compared to other competitors developing similar product and how does boombotix differentiate itself both technology and design wise from the competitors?
Dave- Even though Boombotix was one of the first brands in the space, Lief and his crew were young and resources some years were pretty slim. Some bigger brands were able to capitalize a little faster. But the brand has been plunging along and really getting some good momentum. Most brands in this space are either from CE (consumer electronics) or from lifestyle. Both of these seem to look at this category see this as a commodity play or an afterthought. A lot of blue tooth speakers are either cheap and sound bad- or they cost a lot.
For this brand, this is all we do, so there is a lot more care and thought put into it. We have strived to be unique and authentic. In the bike world, Boombotix is a known brand. At the end of the day our stuff sounds better for a better value. I've done the "Pepsi Challenge" with a lot of our competitors. There is no better sounding speaker that is as portable as the REX at that price. None. And now, with the PRO, which has some unique features like being fully submersible, a 2 gig flash drive to store music on the actual speaker and insane acoustics.
Tell us about some of the recent collaborations with artists and designers and how this is going to help evolve the brand.
Dave- Right after I started, RZA from the Wu-Tang Clan took notice of our brand. We were able to do a release of speakers that had 8 new Wu-Tang songs on it before the album dropped. We have a Grateful Dead speaker out, that has done super well. RZA and Shavo from System of the Down recorded an album which we can only be found on one of our speakers. Coming up with some projects on the way too . . . . oh, and RZA, he is part of the brand too. It's been crazy having meetings or doing dinner with RZA, it's pretty unreal.
Anything else you would like to discuss?
Dave- Just that we are a small company here in SF, we all live here in SF and most of the team grew-up in the area, we got roots here!
Come in the shop and we'll be happy to show you how the BoombotREX speakers work and please visit Boombotix HERE.
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Time for some amazing deals -Aqua Surf Shop sample sale featuring RVCA, Hippy Tree, Obey, Nixon and Amuse Society.
Saturday August 1st from 10 till 4pm. 3847 Judah Street @ 44th.
www.aquasurfshop.com
415 242 9283
Launch into the Outsidelands weekend with a full tummy! Another POP happening @ Aqua with Native Sons BBQ, Magnolia and Gnarhunters!
Thursday August 6th at Aqua Surf Shop from 6 to 9pm.
Cruise by the shop, Native Sons BBQ will be cooking Texas-style brisket with fixins'. Tacos with your choice of pulled pork or smoked lamb shoulder. AND MORE!!! Delicious beers from Magnolia Brewery and legend Elissa Steamer slinging the latest towels and clothing from her brand Gnarhunters!
“I take a deep breath, I open my eyes.”
An Aqua book report by Skydar
Recently, I read a couple books back to back and felt like they’d be good to share with folks who read this blog. So much of what Aqua represents and stands behind is the ‘get outside’ mentality, whether it is surfing or hiking or just sitting in the sandy dunes and thinking. It is of utmost importance that we, as humans, return to nature and take a look around. If you enjoy reading, maybe these would make good options - or gifts for your friends.
I started with the young adult novel My Side Of The Mountain, by Jean Craighead George. Originally published in 1959, it tells the story of Sam Gribley - a 12 year old boy who lives in New York City, but longs to live on the abandoned family property in the Catskill Mountains. Early in the story, Sam announces to his father that he is leaving and plans to live in the woods surrounding the property - and his Dad obliges, assuming he’ll give up and be back in a month. (Not sure my Dad would have been cool with me doing this in 7th grade, but then again, this was 1959…)
Sam quickly learns that living with no shelter and a small amount of food won’t suffice, and immediately sets to fix his situation to more stability. With thoughtful contemplations and smart solutions, he sets about living a solitary life in the Catskills. And, being a young adult book, there are daring stories of raising a pet falcon and befriending a weasel, a raccoon and more.
Sam ends up thriving in his new environment, and relishes every moment of his time - even in the coldest of seasons. I thoroughly enjoyed when Sam finished his daily chores, and noticed the beauty of his surroundings in detail. I loved it when he is awoken from a sleep with a “Pop, Pip” noise, and he was confused of its source. He looked in the grass and noticed an earthworm coming out of a hole.
“Nearby another one arose and there was a ‘pop.’ Little bubbles of air snapped as these voiceless animals of the earth came to the surface. That got me to smiling. I was glad to know this about earthworms. I don’t know why, but this seemed like one of the nicest things I had learned in the woods - that earthworms, lowly, confined to the darkness of the earth, could make just a little stir in the world.”
While it’s kind of a clunky (but still fun) book to read as an adult, this is one of those that I wish I would have read as a 10-12 year old. A good one to inspire a kid to get outdoors, and take part in the nature around them. Sam’s character matures in such an inspiring way, yet still holds his idealism and dedication true.
The second book I read would have been absolute torture to read in high school - or even in college. In fact, the author wraps up the book’s afterword with “Inexplicably, this difficult book has often strayed into boarding-school and high-school curricula as well as required college courses… And consequently a generation of youth has grown up cursing my name…”
Pilgrim At Tinker Creek by Annie Dillard was a total challenge for me as an adult. However, I accepted the challenge as I was WILLING to be patient with her writing as the book wasn’t forced upon me. Originally published in my birth year (1974), Dillard’s book won the Pulitzer Prize for Non-Fiction when she was only 29.
In its essence, it is a collection of narratives where Dillard explores her own backyard - from changes in season to studying a frog for 15 pages. Even if you don’t have a clue what she is talking about in her lengthy and beautiful descriptions (which will be the case), it is a pleasure to read of her excitement for nature which largely goes unnoticed.
As one reviewer put it, “One of the most pleasing traits of the book is the graceful harmony between scrutiny of real phenomena and the reflections to which that gives rise.” It is not the frog itself that is the point, but what the frog draws the author/reader to feel. I have heavily dog-eared the pages of my book with quotes that I liked. Will leave this one for you here, where Dillard describes how we (as adults) tend to overlook nature and discovery:
“When we lose our innocence - when we start feeling the weight of the atmosphere and learn that there’s death in the pot - we take leave of our senses. Only children keep their eyes open. The only thing they have got is sense; they have highly developed “input systems,” admitting all data indiscriminately. If you really want to find arrowheads, you must walk with a child - a child will pick up everything. All my adult life I have wished to see the cemented case of a caddisfly larva. It took Sally Moore, the young daughter of friends, to find one on the pebbled bottom of a shallow stream on whose bank we sat side by side. “What’s this?” she asked. That, I wanted to say as I recognized the prize she held, is a memento mori for people who read too much.”
Tinker Creek should be read* - the asterisk to suggest that you are both an adult and actually desiring to read this book. It takes a while to get into its rhythm, but once you do - you may find as many amazing moments as does the author. Or you may join the generation who curses her name!
For any more show info visit http://www.theindependentsf.com/event/877827-spirit-akasha-san-francisco/
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What is 'Akasha'
If you could string your moments of pure bliss in surfing through your entire life, like pearls on a string, then a great story would unfold and your time here would not have been wasted. It would be the story of a deep connection with the ocean forged form a lifelong commitment to an idea. As humans, everything that we are, everything that we have done and everything that we have yet to do must first exist as an idea.
The great works of art and science and healing that have everlasting benefits for the life of humankind, originate as ideas. As such, they materialise from somewhere beyond time and space. In the east, this place is known as Akasha, a universal dimensions from which all ideas, all like and all creation originate.
"According to the philosophers of India, the whole universe is composed of two materials, one of which they call Akasha. It is the omnipresent, all-penetrating existence. Everything that has form, everything that is the result of combination, is evolved out of this Akasha. It is the Akasha that becomes the air, that becomes the liquids, that becomes the solids, it is the Akasha that becomes the Sun, the Moon, the stars, the comets, it is the Akasha that becomes the human body, the animal body, the plants, every form that we see, everything that can be sensed, everything that exists. It cannot be perceived; it is so subtle that is is beyond ordinary perception; it can only be seen when it becomes gross, has taken form. At the beginning of creation there is only the Akasha. At the end of the cycle the solid, the liquids, and the gases all melt into the Akasha again, and the next creation similarly proceeds out of Akasha…"
Albert Falzon
In the beginning of the Spirit of Akasha project I had this idea of some of the best modern surfers in the world riding boards inspired by the boards that were ridden in Morning of the Earth. These boards would be single fins, as that's what was predominately ridden back in 1972. I had this vision in my mind of re-creating the beauty and dance of the Michael Peterson sequence at Kirra - folly really, as Kirra today, is only a shadow of the wave it once was. And, in my opinion, the sequence is one of the most beautiful series of ridden waves ever captured on film. In essence: a boy discovering with each ride the possibilities of what he could be: agile and naive - but open to understanding the spark of what he felt. Still young enough to have that skeletal structure without muscle, a lightweight drifting at the highest of speeds across waves with very few humans around to interfere with his chosen track. Riding a board shaped by his own hands, engineered in his eighteen year old mind to ride the perfect sand bottom suckers - in boardies no less. Moments unable to be repeated because life moves on, change takes placed in the mind and body and, as we all know, waves are like snowflakes. For some reason these moments were recorded on film for others to watch and wonder about for eternity.
"By chance. I just turned up and Michael happened to be surfing," is Albert Falzon's recall of how the sequence came about.
And Michael's recall, "If they'd taken that movie on the first or second day they would have seen some better surfing, everybody was worn out, everybody was a lot slower because they were worn out. That cyclone lasted for weeks."
One can only imagine…
And so the Earth keeps turning - it's been forty revolutions around the sun since Albert burned celluloid of this kid in yellow and then red boardies. Call it a celebration, call it an inspired move - at the beginning of 2012 Albert and I began working on a new film - attempting to capture the values and spirit that was represented in Morning Of The Earth.
In the new film I wanted to feature women surfing. I wanted to show the unique relationship women have with the sea. I'd first seen this relationship in the early nineties, when I'd watched Rell Sunn drift across a wave at Makaha. Her ride was like nothing I'd ever seen before.
Andrew Kidman
Australian artist Andrew Kidman works in many mediums. Each discipline, be it music, writing, painting, photography, surfboard shaping or films is born from his innate connection to the ocean.
Kidman’s documented and recorded works evolve over many years, allowing them to take on a life of their own. His patience and dedication to subject is remarkably rare in the modern day commercial arena.
Often dealing directly with the documentation of his peers and his own personal experiences, the stories he chooses to tell don’t expire but grow more complex with time.
Among his works are the films Litmus, Glass Love and Last Hope. Last Hope in particular being a film that merged the creative aspect of surf and art.
Andrew is also an accomplished musician, having released albums as Andrew Kidman, The Val Dusty Experiment and The Brown Birds of Windy Hills.
Andrew has also published a number of books, most notably Lost in the Ether, Way of the Bird and a film/book documentary detailing the finer points of surfboard designed, Ether.
The end result offers and un-namable and moving familiarity to those it reaches. Yet it consistently embodies an unfamiliar meditative ‘otherness’ very particular to him. This ethereal aspect is an invitation to take a deeper look.
http://www.andrewkidman.com/
His inaugural feature film, Morning of the Earth was the first Australian film to receive a gold record for album sales. His entry in the Cannes Film Festival Crystal Voyager featured music from Pink Floyd. Talking Heads and Brian Eno accompanied an Indian Saddhu’s pilgrimage in Same as it ever Was.
Falzon’s career in film making was a natural progression from international still photography, and later combined with magazine publishing, in Australia, Israel and the island of Bali in Indonesia. He was co-founder and publisher of the surfing newspaper Tracks.
His perceptive and sensitive photographic eye almost suggests that he was born with a camera to it.
A penchant for travel, particularly to remote and spectacular regions in the world has had a major influence on the themes of Falzon’s work. A six part documentary series focused on traditional Festivals in such Far Eastern countries as Sri Lanka, India, Burma, Ladakh and Tibet has sold to over forty countries world-wide.
The significance of filming some of these regions is only evident today with the political closing of Tibet and Burma to travelers and the civil strife in Sri Lanka. And not all locations were easily accessible.
Another film The Road to Timbuktu followed a path from Casablanca across the searing Sahara Desert to Timbuktu on the African Ivory Coast.
He has also directed two long version music videos for Chris Blackwell founder of Island Records and was DOP on Women of Spirit a one hour television program recently filmed in India, NY and London.
www.albertfalzon.com
Salt water, sun, surf and yoga!
If you are in need of an escape from the hustle bustle of the city, join Sarah for a transformational week of living yoga. Recharge and rejuvenate with twice daily yoga practices, healthy flavorful food while being nourished by the lush jungle and warm ocean that surrounds YOU!
The retreat takes place at Pranamar Villas in Santa Teresa, Costa Rica. Literally steps away from world class surf. With plenty of space to adventure out into town, explore jungle hikes to waterfalls, learn to surf and or just rest in the beauty that surrounds you!
Sarah has TWO spots left at $1350!
For more information email: sarahpascualyoga@gmail.com
--
Sarah Pascual
Yoga Teacher & Massage Therapist
www.sarahpascualyoga.com
www.facebook.com/sarahpascualyoga
"The best journeys answer questions that in the beginning, you didn't even think to ask"
As a surfer and self-professed record collector nerd, you have to understand my excitement when finding out that New York label ‘Anthology Recordings’ released the soundtrack to the pivotal surf film, Morning of the Earth. This is a film that has influenced us here at Aqua deeply (anyone remember our short film, Mourning of the Earth…?), and we continue to watch it on the regular.
The combination of extremely soulful surfing, the righteous vibe of that era and the soundtrack created for the film is nothing short of perfection.
(Riverock and Skydar jamming out with friends- from a rough screen shot of our short film.)
Fast forward to a recent email I got from the company announcing their third surf soundtrack release (Bali High, available HERE), and I knew I had to find out who was behind these wonderful decisions. Keith Abrahamsson began working the labels Mexican Summer and Kemado several years back, and what follows are his motivations, experiences, and plans with releasing music crucial to our surfing experience. We encourage you to snag Bali High, and purchase other titles in the collection ASAP.
AQUA: Okay, Keith Abrahamsson, let's start with the basics. Where'd you grow up, and when did you start surfing?
Keith: I grew up on the East Coast -- Connecticut and i've lived in NY for 18 years (spent one year in San Diego when I was 8). I grew up a skater and only picked up surfing over the last year.
AQUA: Was there something recently that got you into surfing?
Keith: To be honest, I always wanted to, but had a crippling phobia of sharks that literally kept me out of the water my whole childhood/young adult life. I have 2 boys and the last I wanted to do was project that fear onto them - so gradually over the last few years I started going in the water and then last year I took the step and tried surfing.
AQUA: Ha, nice! That's almost the exact sub-plot of Jaws with Chief Brody.
Keith: Yeah it's a mega cliche
AQUA: Nah, but understandable. Nature is crazy. So growing up, at what point did you embrace music? As the owner of a record label, I have to imagine there was a point when you understood that this would be your future career trajectory.
Keith: Early. My mom and dad were hugely influential w/ that. My mom would give me Beatles and Kinks records as a young kid and bought me my first 45 (Tom Petty/Stevie Nicks) when I was in 1st grade. My Dad turned me on to heavier jams like Black Sabbath’s Vol.4, Jethro Tull, Hendrix, Savoy Brown, etc around that same time. I never really looked back
AQUA: That's rad. I had something similar when my Dad played Santana and Croce, I still remember thinking I was listening to something so illicit and cool when I heard Croce say "Damn" in his song “Leroy Brown.” Wasn't until high school, really, that I found punk rock. That changed everything for me.
Keith: Yeah man -- i remember staring at Blodwyn Pig's 'getting to this' album cover forever cause it had a naked woman on it. That was mindbending
AQUA: Totally! And also like, 'what else is out there?'
Keith: Same for me on the punk tip. Once I discovered SST, dischord, etc - it was a game changer. I was hugely into metal as a kid too (still am)
(photo of Keith, with son Stellan)
AQUA: And so with all these pretty specific tastes, at some point you create a label, what was your main goal as far as that goes?
Keith: That was a journey. I mean, I played music for a long time - but I couldn't find the right band and I turned to the business side out of necessity to work in music. Long story short, I met a dude named Andres Santo Domingo while I was temping/interning in the early 2000s for a label called Astralwerks. He left to start his own label, which ended up being the Kemado label. He offered me a job and I started doing A&R there right away. I've been there ever since and started the Mexican Summer imprint under Kemado in 2008.
AQUA: Gotcha. I also want to ask of your immediate feeling when you hear something amazing. Is the quick impulse like you want to release this to more people to hear? Alternately, the knee-jerk reaction can be to keep a gem for yourself...
Keith: I don't ever really have that hoarding collector mentality. I know some folks who feel that way -- they wanna uncover an artist and just have it for themselves or a small circle of privileged people. I just come at it from a different place - even if i'm not thinking reissue, I love to share. It's part of how I get turned on to music - I have a constant stream of jams I'm either sending to people or receiving.
AQUA: So with your first Surf Archive release, did you see the surf film or know of the music first? And does that music kind of fit under the umbrella 'feel' of your labels?
Keith: With Morning of the Earth, I first saw it about 11 or 12 years ago and was immediately drawn to soundtrack and general aesthetic of the film. Growing up skateboarding, surf culture is a very natural extension of who I am, which obviously has a lot of bleed into the overall label feel and output w/ Mexican Summer and Anthology. So yeah, I'd say there is a definite common thread there.
AQUA: Morning of the Earth is such an important film for myself and Aqua Surf Shop. We draw HUGE influences from the surfing style and even their aesthetic as well. The music is so unique of the era, but I have a much stronger attraction to the images themselves. But it's funny, because listening to your reissue soundtrack is so nice - largely because it reminds me of the film. My Dad has the same reaction to listening to Honk for Five Summer Stories.
Keith: Five Summer Stories is one of my all-time favorites. Working on an LP reissue for that now!
AQUA: AWESOME. It's good to have these releases because music was so important in that era. Modern surf films kind of got stuck in the 90s blender of rip/slash music. Is getting better now, but so good to hear music written for surfing.
Keith: There was a purity and art that came w/ the marriage of audio/visual back then. Maybe that's the old guy in me talking, but I truly think that there's been some of that feeling lost. Andrew Kidman has done really well preserving that.
AQUA: We are really good friends with Kidman. Have shown his films and art in SF in the past. In fact we're working on a screening for his latest. And we agree, he's got it wired.
Keith: Excellent -- we're doing the Litmus/Glass Love reissues and are bringing him to NY! SOON - this june!
AQUA: Super fun. In fact, Aqua's owner did a music video for Kidman. We look forward to that for sure. Okay so back to this, you see Morning of the Earth and file it away as a pivotal film for you. And then you develop the Surf Archive dept. Was it a crazy process to release Crystal Voyager and Morning of the Earth? Mostly, in getting rights, tracking down artist/filmmaker, etc. Or were they really excited and easy.
Keith: it was not too crazy -- I was lucky to deal w/ some great people. Tony Harlow at Warners was so supportive and Alby Falzon was as well - he's been so easy to work with. I spoke w/ George Greenough on the phone a couple of times, which was a trip and he gave the project his blessing and then I worked closely w/ G.Wayne Thomas. All enthusiastic and cool folks. I was lucky, I suppose.
AQUA: Oh that's so good to hear. It's funny how easy it is to contact your surf heroes. I did a project in college and hung out with Endless Summer’s Bruce Brown for the day - dude could not have been nicer. Kidman is tight with Falzon/Greenough, I believe. He's got the same mentality as them, which is wonderful. Did they realize that there was still an audience for their music?
Keith: I'm not sure -- I think there may have been some surprise that someone in the US wanted to release it. But I think overall Alby was of the mindset to do what we wanted and 'have fun' with it. He was so freewheeling and easy about everything - almost as if he could care less if he made a dime of anything - he's just happy people are still impacted by it.
AQUA: But that's what's so great about his film and that music, is that it's come full circle at this point and people are back to that music and that style of surf. We showed Bali High in San Francisco several years back - but how did you come across the film Bali High - and there are two different scores for the film, right?
Keith: I just came across it a couple years back - and the soundtrack crushed me. Yeah, the original soundtrack that Stephen Spaulding had on there was all major label artists like the Rolling Stones, Peter Tosh, etc. Stuff he never cleared and probably wouldn't have had the budget to clear. So, he decided to get some original composition work done that would compliment the film in the same way those other jams did and hopefully retain some of the feel. That's where Michael Sena came in.
AQUA: So you heard this, was crushed, and did you feel you wanted to know more about Sena or was your first reaction that 'more people have to hear this'?
Keith: At first I didn't feel anything except an urge to give it some deep listens. At the time I wasn't reissuing surf soundtracks, so I didn't think about a release or anything. That came a while after. And I was able to track Michael through the web pretty easily - I think someone passed me his email through a blog.
AQUA: From what I've read online via Aquarium Drunkard’s excellent interview, Sena is pumped and almost reinvigorated with this release, yeah?
Keith: Totally, he's doing new music and digging through archives. I think if there's one thing I could hope for from this process, it's that. And i'm psyched to give the people this soundtrack for the first time ever on vinyl!
AQUA: I think you should be hugely commended for that. When you think of the talents (writers, artists, whatever…) whose work goes forgotten - it's a great thing when someone refreshes their work for a new audience. So, you've mentioned some to me earlier, but are there future releases you would like to announce that you are working on? As well, are there any titles/scores that you are scouring the earth for?
Keith: Yes -- we'll be announcing the 20th anniversary set for Litmus very soon. That'll be a box w/ 2 LPs - both Litmus and Glass Love and a book detailing both films. All laid out and designed w/ love by Andrew Kidman. We've been at work on several others - Pacific Vibrations, Getting Back To Nothing, Five Summer Stories....and more. I've wanted to do the Evolution soundtrack, too - Tamam Shud!
AQUA: Crap. I can already feel my credit card maxing. I could ramble with you all day, but will keep it somewhat condensed for blog-attention-spans. What's the best way for people to stay aware of upcoming Surf Archive releases? Mailing list, twitter, IG, etc?
Keith: Best way to keep up with us is through anthologyrecordings.com and we have instagram and twitter (both @anthology_recs) happening that we're active on. All reissue news (surf and otherwise) runs through those! As well, on June 11th at Pilgrim Surf + Supply in Brooklyn (68 N.3rd St) and June 13th in Amagansett, NY in the town square (also co-presented w/ Pilgrim), we’ll be showing Bali High. We're planning screenings in Hawaii and San Diego as well.
AQUA: Nice! Well, am stoked you took the time for us. And like I said, just stoked to see someone out there dusting off some history and sharing it again (or for the first time) with surfers and music fans everywhere.
Keith: Indeed - labor of love. Thanks for the support, man.]]>Mothers Day:
If you've been surfing all your life, chances are nobody in your circle has paid for it more than your mom. Like a drug or a cult, it takes you on a ride in life that can look insane to an outsider. Sneaker waves, undertows, Jaws, melanoma- I mean what's not there for a mother to love, right? "I want my kid to be a surfer", said no mom ever, anywhere, for the most part. They see we love it and tell themselves maybe it's just a phase, it could be worse, and before they know what happened sandbars are natural features in the shower. Unlike say, soccer, it's a life-shaping pursuit that influences everything from career to geographic location as the childhood hobby grows into adulthood and beyond. Because our moms love us, they stuffed the fear, endured our Spicoli phase, and accept the sport as a part of who we are. That's a really cool thing and for that we are grateful.
In tribute to all that surfing moms put up with because their sons and daughters are hopelessly hooked, I thought it would be cool to check in with a woman whose family has been so thoroughly ravaged by the surfing disease, that doctors suspect there may be a genetic component. Q&A time with the queen of the Fletcher clan, DIbi Fletcher.
AP: Did you know what you were getting into when you first met Herbie and decided to start a family? In your wildest dreams could you ever have envisioned that this family of yours would go on to become an absolutely iconic force in the history and future of the sport?
DBF: I ran away from home with Herbie when I was sixteen. We were both high school dropouts, and there certainly was no great far reaching plan. We were dumb kids, no dough, no education, WOW!
AP: You grew up surrounded by the golden age of California surfing. You then went on to marry one of its stars and together formed a company serving the industry, Astrodeck. When your sons Christian and Nathan were born, did you ever hope that maybe they would choose a conventional career path for whatever reason?
DBF: My father and his brother were well known surfers in their day. My sister was the women's world champion in 65' & 66'. I grew up on the beach in Capistrano surrounded by my Dad's friends who were all entrepreneurs responsible for what is now called the "surf Industry". Herb and I did what seemed natural and went on to create products, films, tow-in surfing and other things that helped push the sport into the future. We took the kids with us everywhere and they loved it, maybe there was no choice for them, maybe they completely lucked out???
AP: A lot of pros crash and burn. The pressure of success, failure, the whole rock n roll lifestyle thing proves too much for many. Did you worry about these pitfalls when the boys were growing up and making names for themselves? As a mother, how do you raise your sons to keep an even keel when the wild world of pro surfing opens up to them?
DBF: I'm sure most anyone bothering to read this has probably heard many half true stories about Christian and has already made up their mind.
AP: What was it like raising two incredibly gifted pro surfers for sons, from the perspective of parent fearing for their children's well-being? I imagine stitches were a fairly common accessory around the house, and it's not like the boys are just going out and pearling softtops into sand either. These kids of yours were doing crazy shit on surfboards even then, over reefs and waves of serious consequence. Surfing, at a high level and pushed to extremes such as in your family, is definitely up there on the danger scale, so how did you cope with this reality as a parent?
DBF: It's hard to imagine how my sons could have been any different then they were. I was raised in a world of thrill seekers and I didn't know any different, so it seemed perfectly natural for them to push the boundaries.
AP: Any injuries to your sons that were serious enough to make you seriously question what you are letting your boys do? Did you ever doubt your own judgement as a parent for letting them pursue a sports pro dream?
DBF: The boys were fortunate and didn't get injured too severely. Herb on the other hand, ate it pretty bad on quite a few occasions, broken backs, ripped rotator cuff, collapsed lung, crushed hip, femur broken in over one hundred places,,,I could go on, why bother. Life is was it is- suck up up the bad times and make it work. I would rather have them all doing what they love and being their best and pushing the envelope every chance they get, then being afraid to engage fully. If it's your time, it's your time, and the shit will find you whether you're hiding of flying, so give it your all!!!
AP: Can you even bring yourself to watch some of the crazy shit Nathan is dropping in on these days? What's it like to know your son is at the tip of the spear, among an elite group of pros surfing the largest waves on the planet. Some mix of pride and terror I suppose?
DBF: I’m grateful everyday for Nathan. I think it's fantastic that he gets to live the life he's chosen and I support him 100%. He know's what he's doing, and if it bothers me, I keep my mouth shut. Like I said above, I have faith, whatever the outcome, he's lived his life with honor and integrity, what more would any mom want for her son?
AP: Was there a backup plan in your mind for a scenario in which the whole pro surfing thing failed to pan out for the boys? Were you thinking of that when you and Herbie started Astrodeck?
DBF: We started Astrodeck in 1976 it had nothing to do with what we thought about pro surfing. We had a family that we needed to take care of. Herb had always been a surfboard shaper and when he started fooling around with the product, he felt he had come across something that would revolutionize the surfing experience, giving the surfer more fin and rail control.
AP: "Never mix family with business". This proverb sometimes gets thrown about as if it's some sort of universal truth, yet in most of the world this is a completely normal arrangement. When the surf is pumping, I imagine staffing demands at Astrodeck get strained. How does the whole family business arrangement work for you? Is it ideal?
DBF: I do everything!!! That's how it works.
AP: Thank you for your time Dibi, every time I place an order I really enjoy hearing your radical stories. Aqua customers, come on in a get some Astro Deck traction, we have a full stock of em.
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Sale is on wetsuits only- not booties or surf accessories.
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AQUA: Please summarize your warranty policy, as we respect how you stand behind your products.
SAM: Famous Surf stands behind all our products 100%. All Famous products, unless otherwise stated are guaranteed for a period of 1-year from the purchase date against faulty defects in materials and workmanship. This guarantee does not cover neglect, abuse or natural wear and tear. To make a warranty claim simply return the product and sales receipt to the place of purchase.
AQUA: Thanks, Sam. Keep bringing the quality and we’ll keep stocking it.
Thursday April 2nd/Aqua Surf Shop
POP
with Hook Fish Co
UP
Also Beer from Magnolia Brewery.
Hook Fish Co will be cooking up and selling their broke da mouth delicious Albacore poke burritos and grilled fish tacos.
From 6 to 9 at Aqua Surf Shop 3847 Judah Street at 44th.
A little About Hook Fish Co:
"Hook Fish Co is an Outer Sunset-based seafood company preparing seafood dishes straight from your coastline - as you eat our poke and food, you help empower small-scale, local fishermen.
We were born and raised in Newport Beach, and grew up surfing, fishing, diving, and traveling. We have started Hook Fish Co to bring responsibly-caught seafood to our local Sunset community. We are super grateful and stoked to be doing what we love.”
-Beau & Christian:
Opening Party this Thursday night! Happy to be in our new home!
With continued growth of San Francisco and its beach community our old home on Sloat is being developed which is why we moved into our new home on Judah street. In a short amount of time, we have got the new shop ready to go and would love if you come celebrate the opening of the new location with us. This Thursday night from 6 till 9pm come enjoy some poke tacos from Hook Fishco, beer from Magnolia Brewery. Check out Sir Ferris Plock and a brand new Aqua tee he designed for the opening, talk surfboards with Doc Lausch of Surf Prescriptions, and Dave Vernor of Vernor Surfboards. Stoked!
3847 Judah Street 44th Sunset
From 6 till 9pm.
Pictures by JR.
Recently it takes a lot more effort to get myself in the water on the handful of yearly big OB days. The wild abandon of my 20s waned into a more seasoned approach in my 30s. Now well into my 40s, I find it takes a lot of mental and physical effort to get out there, but when I do the rush still feels the same and the fear never goes stale. A little fear is fun. It's the spice of life in surfing OB that we all love. But when you add the challenge of career, family, and physical fitness (the whole suite of baggage that comes with advancing age) the victory is a little sweeter.
Generally older surfers have a lot more on the line on these biggest days. Surfers like me have people that depend on us, have deadlines that can't be missed and risk injury that can't be sustained without risking what you worked so hard to build. If you find yourself outside at DOH+ OB and most of the faces within view are decades younger, well, it's harder to fool yourself about what your priorities in life are, but still it feels pretty damn good!! When I begin to doubt my resolve, a guy with ten years or more on me and less foam under his chest makes his way through the inside. My mind’s made up now. It's become more inspiring for me to see that now than a bunch of pros tearing Noriega to shreds.
On those holy days when the the morning sun lights up the backs of the unworthy as they watch the show from the dunes, and the black dots way out to sea are few, you can bet that a couple of OB's grizzled silverbacks are out there. JR, Rocky and Jack are the three guys that initially come to mind when I think of the older guys still charging balls-out OB whenever the magic happens. You can bet they are suiting up, cracking jokes, and loving every second of the ritual of these days. It's what they live for - and I guess it's what their life has been built around. Surfers like these are my role models now, folks I look up to when I think about where I want my surfing to be. Sorting out age, responsibilities, health yet still getting it done on the solid days. My cutback is not getting any crisper these days, but these guys show me there are a lot of other things to work on.
So it's time to post some images of these surfers and hear some shit learned from experience. They aren't the only ‘advanced in age’ guys to be charging big OB (...and it's not only guys either!) but these three are friends of Aqua - and regularly remind us that grom status is a relative thing.
JR dropping in and setting up. Picture by Bruce Topp of Norcal Surf Photos.
Aleks: Could you tell me your age when you started surfing? How long have you surfed at OB?
JR: I starting surfing in NJ in the mid-'70s. Came to SF in 1990. Started surfing OB shortly thereafter.
Rocky: I started surfing Bolinas in 1968 and moved up to surfing OB around 1971. Holy shit that makes me how old?
Jack: I started surfing when I was 32 and have now been surfing Ocean Beach for 31 Years.
Aleks: How about a little insight into your work/family lives and how you have engineered life so that you hardly miss a big day?
JR: It is tough to find the live-work-surf balance. Something always suffers a little. The forecasting tools are better so I try to keep blocks of time free when the magic happens. It kills me when I miss a day with great conditions - but it happens.
Rocky: The early years of raising a family will impact your surfing no question about it. Having an understanding wife helps. My real estate profession has always allowed me flexibility to be in the water on the right days. Surf forecasting makes it a lot easier to adjust schedules these days.
Aleks: Does the inevitable deterioration of an aging body frustrate you, so that you find yourself training out of water to keep the performance level up? Or do you just adjust your performance level down and settle for making a drop or two without getting too worked. At some point you just have to make peace with the limits of age, right?
JR: Age impacts the feeling of invincibility. You realize that OB can really mess you up if you go out on the wrong days.
Rocky: The deteriorating aging body is real, something you need to deal with and be smart about. A lot of us older guys are experiencing shoulder / arm problems. Body parts wear out over time and yours will too. Keeping healthy and staying uninjured is key to surviving the brutality of the beach. I eat healthy, know I can’t drink the night before & practice yoga twice a week to try to stay flexible. Yoga has definitely helped reduce injuries. You have to work harder just to stay par and in the game. We are grateful to still be out there but realize we are all probably one injury from being done. My surfing is not improving but I am surfing better because I am surfing smarter. My wave judgment has gotten much better.
Jack: Yes, yes, and Yes- to the aging question. No and a big NO on bringing my performance level down- that just gets you into trouble out there. There are no bad waves just BAD DECISIONS!
Jack on a sweet one. Picture by Bruce Topp of Norcal Surf Photos.
Aleks: Does it have to be a universal truth that an aging surfer needs to compensate with more foam?
JR: I love the more foam concept but I'm not sure I would attribute that to age. More foam helps you paddle against the currents, gets you into waves earlier and increases your wave count. You only need a shorter board to do cutbacks - and who does cutbacks at Ocean Beach? Only people on their last wave of the day. The downside of more foam - you have to get the board to the outside. Not too easy.
Rocky: Well, I’m probably the poster boy for thick boards and ride bigger and thicker boards than most. 61 yrs old, weighing 200lbs, I want paddle power to get out of harms way on the big days. Can't take the hits like I use to, don’t want to get caught in in bad places (yeah right, this is OB). People always ask me ‘how do you paddle those big boards out there?’ Simple, you get good at knifing the board through waves and the ground you lose not being able to duck dive can easily be made up by paddle power as soon as you get a gap. Paddling a big beefy board out on large period swells is really not a problem. It’s those 14-second or less intervals that kick your ass. If I can’t make it out in 15-20 minutes, I go back to the beach and rest up for round 2. If I don't get out after round 2, round 3 is breakfast.
Jack: I think that depends on how big your ego is. The advantage to a bigger board is getting in a lot earlier at a less critical point on the take off - and getting more waves. The real trick at OB is getting out…
Aleks: On any big day we can see that getting out is more an exercise of working smarter not harder, and experience counts for a lot out there. Since you guys have a lot of experience, can you tell us the secret for getting out on days when we probably don't belong out?
JR: No. :)
My tactics provide a high rate of success but often it is pretty random. This year, on different occasions, I had paddles of 60 and 90 minutes while I had friends get out in 10 minutes. Random.
Rocky: Be patient! Study the beach, study where guys are making it out, currents, rips, time the lulls, etc. I’ll stand waist deep in water and wait 10-20 minutes if I have to, waiting for a gap. Being conscious about conserving energy is key to us silverbacks. Oh yeah, it helps to be lucky and of course there is praying as needed.
Jack: Again, the real trick and accomplishment at OB is just Getting out….
Aleks: War stories. My buddy Jeff once went down hard on a drop of an outside Lawton 15' bomb in the mid 90s. He was pinned to the bottom and his wetsuit became unzipped and pulled inside-out all the way to the wrist on both hands, effectively hog-tying him. I myself have had multiple beatdowns. Please tell us the story of one of your nightmare Ocean Beach wipeouts.
JR: Years ago, I was surfing VF's on a huge, rising swell. A big set appears and I paddle as hard as possible for the horizon. Made it through three waves, but kept getting pushed back. I got caught in the impact zone and didn't know if I should paddle out or in. I ditch to swim under when the lip landed six feet in front of me. The impact of the lip lifted me out of the water and threw me through the air towards the shore. I skipped a couple times and then it felt as if a house landed on me. Most violent hold down ever. Happy to be pushed to shore and happier to be done for the day.
Rocky: The sandbars have really changed and relocated the waves over the years. In the 80s, VFW’s was the focal point for west swells creating insane top-to-bottom dredging bombs. I got stuck in the lip on a double overhead heavy offshore day and slammed so hard I thought I blew my eardrum out. After floating to the beach on my board, I was barely able crawl out of the water. So disoriented, I just laid on the beach trying to unscramble my brain. Unable to walk, immobilized and just f’in knocked silly. You never forget your worst wipeouts.
Rocky leaning into a nice right. Picture by Bruce Topp of Norcal Surf Photos.
Aleks: Are there days where you simply want no part of it? What thoughts are going through your head as you talk yourself out of it? Do you still feel like you have something to prove or do those feelings fade over time?
JR: Deciding not to go out are often days of regret. The regret increases the odds I'll go out the next time when it is the same size or bigger. I'm more likely to pass on a huge day in the fall because I'm not entirely prepared. It takes a while to work up to the mental fitness part of surfing OB. Hopefully it all comes together by mid-November when the real swells start to arrive.
Rocky: I’m still stoked and pick my battles carefully - way done going out on stupid days. Eventually you come to terms with your ego. In 1994, the week Mark Foo died at Mavs, Dave Alexander and I paddled out in the biggest OB we had ever seen (all the stars were at Mavs). I was 40 years old, had a 3 year old son and I was asking myself some serious questions before jumping in the water. That day was a defining moment for me knowing I pushed as far as I wanted to go and paddled out for the right reasons. After that day, I never had the desire to be in waves that size again. Everyone has a different timetable and reasons for stepping back. Age may have nothing to do with it but certainly something to take into consideration. When you accept it is OK not to paddle out because you have nothing to prove, surfing becomes much more enjoyable and so does breakfast.